Sunday, December 16, 2007

The winter of my discontent

This weather has caught us off guard this December as I gave away most of our winter coats in the heat of the summer in anticipation of 40's to 50's degree winter temperatures. Needless to say this was a wrong move on my part. It's a particularly cold season in Memphis this year.

Although there is no snow yet, the wind and rain are abundant. Masses of blown leaves have fallen to create a brown slippery surface on sidewalks and roads. Yesterday, it rained all day making the air biting cold. John and I negotiated which of us was doomed to walk the dogs in the morning as the rain poured. John caved to my whining so he donned his sweats, wrapped up in scarf, hoodlum hat and semi-heavy jacket and took the boys out. None of them liked getting wet. Fred was so against it that he refused to poop. The three of them scooted back to the house where it took ten minutes to dry off the little beasts. We all stayed close to the fire for the rest of the day.

But, when the sky clears as it has this morning, the air is clear and the wind crisp, its a perfect setting for a walk. With some urging (e.g., Get your lazy butt off the couch, my love!), John joined me this morning for a long walk with the dogs on the river in Lee Park. It was invigorating. In fifty minutes, we returned energized and refreshed ready to face a Sunday afternoon of small chores and last minute planning for our long awaited trip to the east coast for the holidays.

Like the disappointing weather, my opinion of Memphis was confirmed this morning and continues on its downward trend. The Commercial Appeal's editor, Chris Peck, who's only been in the city for five years, summed up the Memphis character well in an article titled, "Getting to know you, Memphis". He reports that he's been "let in just a little" because of his role as editor of the 167 year old paper, but still is not considered a "local" yet. Three images describe Memphis from his perspective. I agree with him heartily.
  • First, the city is living in the past. The civil war is not over for Memphians, black or white. Many whites are of their proud southern heritage that focuses on the fact that Memphis was once a Union-occupied city. Many blacks still believe they are slaves. Underneath every one's pleasantries of "Yes, Ma'am", "Good morning" and waving, the citizenry seethes with hate and distrust.
  • Second, there is a strange tension between between the Beale Street soul and blues music and sin scene and what he calls the "Bellevue Baptist" set that praises God on Sunday but allows Memphis to continue as one of the nation's most corrupt civic environments. Blacks used to complain about the Crump regime of control and corruption. Now, with its first black mayor, Herrrington, winning his fifth four year term, its the whites turn to constantly complain.
  • That points up the third, and last outstanding trait about Memphis. Memphis is "stuck on race". It is a divided city where race is made "the issue" at the smallest challenge to a poltican's behavior. It is the contention always touted as the problem. The recent dispute about the National Civil Rights Museum, its board make-up and mission made me think I was still living in the 1960's.
I yearn to live in a place that has gotten beyond these character traits. Not that any city is pure or free from its past, corruption or racism, but there are places that have left these issues behind and moved forward, using them as lessons of what not to do. I remember living in Arlington, VA which looks forward with a 25 year plan that is carried out methodically, includes everyone, where public schools are top rated and integrated, and new comers are welcome no matter who is in charge. How I miss those character traits!

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