Barbecue Review

My sister, Elaine, has been know to drive cross country to Kansas or Alabama or wherever to taste test and then bring home the best barbecue (BBQ) by the cooler full. So, it was natural that on her visit last week to Memphis, her top priority, next to visiting Graceland, was to survey first hand three reputed BBQ joints in Memphis -- Interstate, Rendezvous, and Corky's -- to determine which was worthy of her personal approval and a second visit someday (assuming her sister does not vacate Memphis in the near future). Only the Interstate is African American owned. Their websites are full of information, so here you'll read just our personal biased experiences and recommendations.

First, some facts. These are not the only three BBQ restaurants in Memphis. There are numerous others sprinkled about town which deserve my sister's attention, but with so many joints and so little time, we decided to concentrate on the best known ones.

The Rendezvous is conveniently located in an alley next to the Holiday Inn and across the street from the Peabody Hotel. You have to walk past the dumpsters to get into the front door. It caters to hundreds of tourists every evening along with a few locals who have ventured downtown for a ball game. Eating is downstairs and waiting is upstairs in an old bank building. The decor is aging franchise (aka Friday's), but service is swift and friendly by an army of well organized waiters (men mostly), food runners and bus boys. Everything is served on paper plates with plastic utensils.

Interstate is located where no tourist would dare tread -- about four miles directly south of downtown on Third St. in South Memphis, just north of Interstate 55/240. It's what I call an interesting neighborhood, but it doesn't stop Memphians of all races and ages from stopping by to eat the BBQ. The decor is over-sized diner with plastic tablecloths and flowers, steel bars on the doors, old Neely family pictures on a yellow wall in desperate need of a paint job and a smokey aroma drifting lazily from the kitchen. Plates are 1960's vintage tri-sectioned beige Melmac and silverware cheap but not plastic. They have a greeter, four or five waitresses and a cashier, a wee, thin, old lady, who must be a Neely. Service is friendly, if not a little lay back at times, but then, there is always time, right?

Corky's has multiple locations so we went to the one located near where we were shopping in Wolfchase near Germantown. I've been to the one in town and report that it's about the same decor -- a standardized, franchised look with red and white checkered plastic table clothes. We thought we were in Ruby Tuesday's or Friday's. I'd classify it as an Olive Garden BBQ. Even the waitress introduced herself, "Welcome, I'm Emily and I'll be your server today." At the other two places the words were simple, "Hi. What you want to drink?" and "You ready to order? If so, what do you want?"

Now, second, the important part, the food -- ribs, pulled pork, slaw and bakes beans -- the basic menu of any BBQ joint. All the restaurants offered more choices, but these were on all the menus. My sister and I prefer dry ribs and pork so we didn't taste any of the BBQ sauces which may be very, very important to some folks. Oh well...just live with it!

Interstate wins our vote as the best BBQ joint overall. It's servings were large enough to order a "to go" box early. The beans (as reported by Elaine who does not like spicy food) rival those in Kansas City and the slaw is lip smacking tangy without being overly spicy. Rendezvous slaw is a distinctively spicy concoction and the are beans decent, but neither screamed at us, "Eat me! Wipe of the last little bit up with a roll!" like those at the Interstate. Corky's beans and slaw were tasteless, which must make them a hit with kids and suburban soccer moms. The same can be said for the pulled pork. Interstate pulled pork had a deep smokey flavor and was chopped to perfection. No sauce was needed to make it flavorful. Corky's was randomly chopped roast pork anyone could roast right in her own oven. We didn't have the pork at Rendezvous as we made the mistake of ordering full slabs for each of us.

For the ribs, it was a split decision. I preferred the Rendezvous ribs because they were lean and roasted in a tangy vinegar sauce and dry rub. It gives them a bit of a "bite". Elaine said I liked them best because that's how Dad BBQ'd. Corky's were mild, but not tasteless. Elaine preferred them over the Rendezvous, but postulated that the dry rub was added just before serving. I rejected them as nondescript. Lastly, we agreed that the ribs at Interstate were the most luscious -- big, meaty and fall off the bone mouth watering tender -- even though we couldn't discern a bit of dry rub, but rather that deep smokey flavor.

So, if you like BBQ and want it Memphis style, we suggest you visit Interstate to enjoy the home boy atmosphere and flavorful sides and BBQ. Then, sneak out to the Rendezvous for a carry out order of the their vinegary pit BBQ ribs to bring home. Make your own favorite mixed green salad and have a picnic in front of the TV watching the NCAA final four championship.